On
May 29, 1953, New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Nepalese Sherpa Tenzing Norgay were
the first people to summit all the 29,035 feet of Mount Everest, the highest
mountain in the world. Following their successful attempt, the region and its
people to whom Norgay belonged became a fascination that prompted many to study
the culture of the Sherpas. Initially, the interest came mostly from the
mountaineering field and a few anthropologists, but subsequently, men and women
from all walks of life, with a taste for adventure and the finances to afford
it, started pouring into the area, which until recently had been accessible
only to a selected few. Prior to the 1953 expedition, the Sherpas were largely
unknown to the world, and those who had come in contact with mountaineers were simply
regarded as “coolies” or porters who deserved no further mention. Even after
the success of Hillary and Norgay, no one paid attention to the rest of the team,
most of them Sherpas carrying the needed equipment, without whom the success
would not have been possible. It is the obsession of Westerners with
individualism and individual achievement that often prevents them from
acknowledging the commitment and hard work of an entire team for a successful
climb to the summit of Everest to take place. What is really important is the person who made it to the top, not the
people who helped him along the way.
The
quest for adventure in the most extreme of conditions is definitely sweeping
throughout the world and young and old enthusiasts, women and men, seek and pay
for the promise of experiencing the highest high in their lives. Of all the
adventure sports, however, high-altitude mountaineering is by far one of the
riskiest and most perilous sports. Even though special skills and equipment
have significantly improved the chances of eager mountaineers to reach the
summit of the highest mountains in the world, the success (or failure) of the
whole endeavor ultimately depends on the weather conditions and the behavior of
the mountain. Hidden crevasses and unstable ice could jeopardize or take the
life of the human scaling up or down them in a matter of seconds. In addition,
the elevation offers a different danger in the form of altitude sickness.
Considering
the numerous dangers awaiting those taking up a contest against the mountain,
it is no surprise that the Sherpas traditionally expressed not only reverence
but also fear toward the behemoth. For Westerners, the fear and demoralization
present in Sherpas were embarrassing and as a result, the Sherpas were often
labeled as childish and immature, which, needless to say, did not improve the
unequal relationship between the two groups. From the Sherpa point of view, frostbite and
avalanches meant death and leaving a family without an extra hand. To survive
in the regions they inhabited, they had to learn to be aware of the hidden
dangers of the mountain. The Westerners valued Sherpas’ physical strengths and
adaptability, but they could not deal with their apparent lack of
mountaineering spirit. This was a perfect example of people who did not
understand the mountain judging the people of the mountain.
In
addition to being dangerous, mountaineering is also a very expensive sport and
it is often people who belonged to a certain social class that could afford to
leave their normal lives behind and endure the uncomfortable conditions of a
serious mountaineering expedition. It is also such people that are most
disillusioned with their ordinary lives and sought the excitement of testing
their limits and endangering their lives in order to finally feel alive. As Sherry
Ortner illustrates, mountaineering emerged in response to modernity and this is
why it is largely a 20-century phenomenon. There is something about modern life
spent in monochromatic, regimented, routinized, and boring existence that
pushes one to see escape and feel human again. Ortner writes, “the spirituality
and transcendence of mountaineering contrasts with the crass materialism and pragmatism
of modern life”. Life in the Western world is full of meaningless noise, the
concept of busyness, the ultimate power of father time, characteristics which
leave a person unable to stop and reflect, to commune with the self, nature, or
a higher being. As a climber of the fifties illustrates: When I return to what
is called civilization and find myself once again in crowded, bustling cities,
jostled by men and women whose minds are warped by famous illusions, I
experience a sense of dismay, a sense of uneasiness; I feel I should like to
escape, to run away at once to some distant land, to return into the midst of
simple, humble, primitive people—best of all, to return to one of the those
barren wastes where man can be alone with himself and his God.
For
the Sherpas, on the other hand, the mountain was their life. Day after day,
their “routine” involved going up and down hills at 14,000 feet elevation to
work, to survive. The mountain was not a source for excitement and adventure;
for them, the mountain was a source of peace, and serenity, and harmony. Moreover,
they knew the mountain does not appreciate pretence and while in the busy
modern world, one is able to hide his true self, to hide his true faults and
downsides, in the mountain, the true self is exposed and that allows one to be
open and content, just like the Sherpas.
To
refer back to the story of the first summit of Everest, Tenzing Norgay was the
precedent that set the stage for other Sherpas to follow suit and show the world
that they can do what Westerners can do just as successfully, and perhaps even
more successfully. They are not the only ones, however, interested in the
behemoth of a mountain. As Tashi Tenzing highlights, while fifty years ago the
region was largely accessible only to experienced mountaineers interested in
testing their abilities, in the present, anyone with enough money to afford a
commercial expedition is now set to conquering Everest. Unfortunately, these
are often amateurs with little respect for the mountain or the magnitude of the
climb, and the Sherpas are astonished at their arrogance and belief in
invincibility. For these “climbers,” the mountain is just a thing that can be
conquered with the proper equipment by the almighty humans. Sherpas know
better. They know that the mountain can be dangerous, tricky, and unforgiving
and they respect it. They realize the importance of living in harmony with
nature and even with modernization seeping into their lives, they have managed
to keep their culture and traditions. However, while Tenzing remains optimistic
about the impact popular tourism has had on the region, others warn that in its
quest for global domination, the grip of materialism and consumerism might soon
wipe out another traditional society. Only the future will show which group of analysts
are right.
- Krasi